Today in the Marianne Dress Sew-Along we are going to sew the collar! Technically is collar is for View A, but of course, you can add it to View B too if you like! So, if you are choosing to add the collar, or if you'd just like to see how it's done, here we go!
Lay one collar piece down on your ironing board, wrong side up. Lay the collar interfacing piece on top of the collar, glue side down. Carefully line up all the edges. Note: The collar piece you are interfacing will be the top side of the collar.
Gently lay a press cloth on top of the entire collar piece. Tricot knit interfacing can melt with the heat, so the press cloth will protect the face of your iron.
Use your iron to melt the glue on the interfacing until it is adhered to the collar. Press firmly and use small circles instead of large motions to keep the interfacing in place on the fabric.
If you have any overhang from the interfacing, trim it off so the collar and interfacing are now one. Note: I like to use my paper scissors for any task involving interfacing so the glue doesn't damage my good shears.
Lay one collar piece down right side up. Lay the other collar piece on top of it, right side down. Line up the outer edges.
Pin the collar pieces together. Note: even though you will only be sewing the lower edge, pinning the entire collar can help to stabilize it and will help your sewing remain accurate.
At the center point of the collar, use a water soluble marking tool and seam gauge to mark the pivot point, as well as about an inch on either side of the point. I suggest using a marking tool like the one pictured above, with a very fine point for precise marking. This will help your center point be sewn correctly.
Sew the lower edge of the collar, starting at the side. This cannot be done with a serger or overlock machine due to the center pivot, so only use a conventional machine for this step. I prefer to use a regular straight stitch, as this part of the garment does not require any stretch.
When you reach the center, follow your guidelines that you drew as you approach the pivot. Because of the shape of the collar, you will not be able to follow the seam allowance markings on your machine.
Sink your needle directly into the point for the pivot at the center front of the collar and lift your presser foot. Note: if turning a full stitch will jet you beyond the pivot point, remember that you can turn down your stitch length for a shorter stitch so it will hit the spot perfectly.
Pivot the collar, realign with the markings, and lower your presser foot.
Continue sewing the rest of the collar until you reach the other side.
This is how your center point should now look!
Use small scissors and trim the seam allowance in half to about 1/4".
At the center point, make a small notch so the collar will lay flat at the center. Do not over trim! You can always trim more, but you cannot trim less, so start small and keep trimming if necessary.
Turn the collar right side out and press the lower edge. The seam should be smooth and right at the edge of the collar.
Pin the collar to the dress front. If you are adding the collar to View B, pin the collar to the front yoke piece. The interfaced side of the collar should be on top. Note: even though the lower edge of the collar is not getting sewn, I like to make sure it is flat on the dress by pinning it in place.
Using a conventional machine set to a baste stitch, sew the collar along the shoulders and along the neckline at a 1/4" seam allowance.
And voila! The collar is interfaced, sewn together, and securely attached to the front of your dress. Well done!
Join me tomorrow for another finished dress! Tuesday we will join the yoke pieces to the dress pieces for View B, so if you are using the dress pieces of View A, you are off the hook until Wednesday when we will tackle the shoulder seams.
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