PART 7: HOW TO DO A WIDE SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT
Welcome back to the Emery Dress Sew-Along! I hope you all are hanging in there and getting through your muslins and pattern alterations! This can be a frustrating time, but think about how awesome it is going to be when you finish and have a great fitting dress!
To continue with our pattern adjustments, the lovely Haley is back again today to teach us all about widening the shoulder seam on the Emery Dress to accommodate a wider frame. As always, feel free to leave comments if you have specific questions, as Haley will pop over from time to time to answer specific queries. Okay, take it away Haley!
Hello again! I am excited to be sharing a wide shoulder adjustment tutorial with you today!
WHAT IS A WIDE SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT?
A wide shoulder adjustment increases the length of the shoulder seam between the neckline and the sleeve.
HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED A WIDE SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT?
If you are in need of a wide shoulder adjustment, you may have noticed that the cap of the sleeve sat too high on your muslin mock up. Luckily for you, this is a simple adjustment that can really have a huge impact on the overall fit of the garment.
Your Emery Dress Pattern
A clear ruler (I use a 2" x 18")
LET'S GET STARTED!
Begin by drawing the sewing lines on the upper armcye (starting right below the sleeve notch), the shoulder, and a small portion of the neckline.
Mark the center of your shoulder.
Then using a ruler, draw a line from the center shoulder to the sleeve notch. We will call this line “A.”
Draw a second line starting at the outer corner (cut edge) of the shoulder seam, through the corner of the sewing line, stopping at line “A.” This will be line “B.”
Carefully cut through line “A” starting at the shoulder and ending at the armcye sewing line. Next, cut through line “B” starting at line “A,” but stop at the sewing line. Make a second cut through line “B” starting at the corner, but stop again at the sewing line leaving a small paper hinge.
Tape the inner portion of your shoulder to a piece of pattern paper.
Use your ruler to extend the sewing line out the desired amount (here I extended the shoulder by ½ inch).
Tape the outer shoulder in place, lining the existing sewing line up with the extended one.
Redraw a 5/8" seam allowance around the shoulder area, and trim away excess pattern paper.
Tune in to learn how to adjust your pattern for a narrow shoulder tomorrow!
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Thanks Haley for showing us how to do a wide shoulder adjustment! Good luck with your pattern alterations and we'll see you here tomorrow for our last adjustment for small shoulders!
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All adjustment photos by me.
Photo of Haley Glenn by Devon Iott of Miss Make.