We made it to the last post in the Lottie Dress & Shirt Pattern Sewalong! Today we are wrapping things up with the hem on the sleeves (both short and 3/4-length), the hem on the garment (all views), and the belt from maxi dress, which also can be worn with knee length dress too. Let's get to it and finish up!
Hemming the Garment
For all the views, the hemming is the same, even if you have a vent involved. Turn your garment wrong side out. Fold the hem up wrong sides together 1/4" and press. Fold the hem another 3/8" and press again.
If your garment has vents, you will be pressing in two sections: the front from vent to vent, and the back from vent to vent. If your garment does not have vents, you will simply be pressing in the round.
Top stitch the hem in place by sewing close to the inside fold. Give them hem a good press with your iron, and that part is done!
Hemming the Sleeves
I have seen a lot of questions about how to avoid getting the "swoop" at the hem of the short and 3/4-length sleeves for this pattern, and there are a couple of main tips to help prevent this from happening.
Don't stretch it
Because the sleeve is a dolman sleeve, the hem is on the bias, making it very susceptible to unwanted stretching. So while you are handling the garment, sewing the shoulders and side seams, and trying it on to check the fit, be very careful not to stretch out the sleeve hem accidentally.
Don't pre-fold it
Something I often do on my sleeve hems is fold and press the hems before I sew the side seams, when the sleeves are still flat and not yet in the round. That's fine for a traditional sleeve, but it's the fastest way to accidentally stretch out this kind of dolman sleeve. Once the shoulder and side seams are sewn, and you are pressing the sleeve hem in the round, it can't really stretch out to the same degree that it would if it had an open end on either side. The structure of the closed circle will help restrict it to that distance.
To hem the sleeves, both the short sleeves and 3/4-length sleeves, turn your garment wrong side out. Fold the fabric up 1/4" wrong sides together and press. Fold another 3/8" and press again.
Top stitch the hem in place by sewing close to the inside fold.
Give the hem a good press and repeat on the second sleeve for a finished pair. If you're not making the belt, you're done! Congratulations! For the belt, carry on to the last step.
To form one long belt, sew the four belt pieces together along the short ends, right sides together. Trim the seam allowances in half and press the seam allowances open.
Fold the belt in half, wrong sides together, making sure to line up the raw edges and press.
Open the fold and fold each raw edge into the center fold you just made in the last step. You will now have four equal sections and three pressed folds as pictured above.
Fold the belt closed, with all the folds on the inside, and give the whole length a good press to crease the folds well. Make sure the folded edges are lined up while pressing.
To sew the ends closed, open up the folds just at the two ends, and fold the each end of the belt, right sides together. In the photo above, it's hard to tell but the outside part is the wrong side, and the inside is the right side.
Stitch the short ends closed and trim the seam allowance to 1/8".
Turn the ends right side out and use a point turner (or knitting needle as I did above) to form the point at the corner.
Refold the original folds, tucking them into the end of the belt. Again, use a point turner or similar tool to help form a perfect right angle at the end.
Stitch the belt closed by sewing 1/8" along the open edge, going through the layers. Give the whole belt a good press with your iron to crisp.
The belt is designed to tie around the waist twice. When putting it on, place the center of the belt at the center front of your body, wrap around your back, cross at the center back, then return to the center front to tie as you prefer.
CONGRATULATIONS! You are finished! I hope that these posts have been helpful as you sew your own Lottie. Thank you for following along with me!