PART 12: SEWING THE SKIRT AND POCKETS
Anyway, welcome to part 12 of the Emery Dress Sew-Along! Today we're going to sew on the pockets, sew the skirt pieces together, gather the waist of the skirt, and then attach it to the bodice. This is a super fun step because your mess of fabric starts to really look like the Emery Dress by the end of this step! Alright, let's get started!
Place one of the pocket pieces on the skirt back, right sides together. Line up the top of the pieces and the notch and pin in place. Repeat on the other skirt back and on the skirt front.
Sew the pocket to the skirt with a scant 5/8" seam allowance. During the testing phase, there were a lot of questions on what I meant by scant. Some thought I must mean 3/8" or 4/8", but no, I do not. If I did, I would have said so! A scant is a smidge, a little bit, a small and un-measureable amount. What I mean is that you should sew it equal distance between 5/8" and 4/8". This is so that when you go to sew the seams at 5/8", the stitch line is on the inside of the pocket and not visible on the front of the skirt. Let me know if anyone needs clarifying on that!
After you sew on the pockets, finish the seam for just the pocket part of the side seam. I'm using a 3-step zigzag.
Press the seam allowance toward the pocket, flattening the piece and making the pocket part of the skirt.
Place the skirt backs on the skirt front, right sides together and pin in place.
Mark the stopping point from the skirt to the notch. Make sure your marking tool is water soluble.
Extend the stitch line from the pocket to the skirt and down the seam. The shape of the corner prevents you from being able to see the seam line on the machine. This way you can follow the marks until the lines below are again visible.
Sew down from the top of the waist to the notch, just on the side of the pocket stitching.
Sew from the top of the pocket, around the pocket, and down to the hem.
Finish the seam and press the seam allowance and the pocket towards the skirt front.
The seams on the right side of the skirt should all be hidden inside the pocket!
Set your machine to a long baste stitch and sew a series of baste stitches. First, at the 3/8" seam allowance, sew from the center back to the side seam and stop. Sew another stitch at the 3/8" seam allowance from side seam to side seam, across the skirt front. Stitch a third stitch at the 3/8" on the remaining skirt back. Repeat all of those but at the 3/4" seam allowance. Be sure not to back stitch and to leave long thread tails. With right sides together, pin the skirt to the center front, at the side seams, and at the center back.
Be sure to not pin or sew baste stitches on the pockets! Leave them out of the way of all stitching and pinning.
Pull the baste stitches and gather the fabric until it matches the width of the skirt.
Lock the threads in place by wrapping them like a figure eight on either side of the gathering.
Even out the gathering and pin in place.
The pockets should again be completely left out of the way during the gathering and pinning.
Once all the gathering is pinned, pin the pockets to the skirt front in line with the gathering.
Sew the skirt to the bodice at the 5/8" seam allowance. This should place your stitching right between the two rows of baste stitches.
When you get to the pockets, just sew right over them as well, keeping on the 5/8" seam allowance.
After all is sewn down, remove the baste stitches. The ones under the pockets can be tough to get out, so be gentle!
Using the edge of your iron, press the seam allowance up toward the bodice.
Trim the seam in half and you're done! And if you're like me, this is when you try it on :)
As always, let me know if you have any questions or need anything clarified! Since this is up a day late, the alternate skirt post will go up tomorrow. So tune in then to see how you can pleat your skirt instead of gathering if you prefer!
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