PART 10: SEWING THE COLLAR
PREPARING THE COLLAR
Following the markings on the pattern piece and the layout in the instructions, cut four collar pieces. Make sure that you have a pair for the right side of the dress and a pair for the left side. After cutting the collar, cut your notches and unpin the pattern piece. Use the pattern piece to cut two collar pieces from interfacing.
Whichever pair of collar pieces you plan to use on the bottom, lay them down on your ironing board, wrong side up. Place the interfacing on top, glue side down.
Iron the interfacing to the collar pieces. Once the glue is melted and the interfacing is set, lay the pieces down on a flat surface to cool.
SEW THE COLLAR
Place one interfaced collar piece and its uninterfaced mate together, right sides facing. Pin in place. Repeat with the other pieces so you have two identical collar pieces pinned together.
Mark the pivot on the back of the collar. Do not pivot at the top of the back collar.
Mark the pivots at the bottom and top of the front of the collar.
At the 5/8" seam allowance, stitch the collar pieces together. Again, do not pivot at the neckline edge of the back!
Pivot at the bottom back corner.
Pivot at the bottom front corner.
And pivot at the top of the front collar. Press all the stitching. Repeat on the other collar.
Trim all the sewn sides of each collar down to 1/4".
Continue around the collar and trim all the sewn sides down to 1/4".
Use a point turner to poke out the corners around the collar.
Finger press the sewn edges of the collar and flatten.
Press all the edges with an iron.
Top stitch the sewn edges, 1/4" from the edge. This is much easier done with a 1/4" foot.
Press your stitching.
Repeat all the steps with the other collar until you have a matching set!
ATTACH THE COLLAR TO THE DRESS
Pin the front of the collar at the center front of the neckline.
Pin at the shoulder seam, lining up the notch on the collar with the seam.
At the center back, mark in 5/8" from the center back.
Pin the back of the collar at that 5/8" mark.
Ease the collar to fit between the three pinned spots and pin in place around neckline.
Repeat with the other collar until both are pinned in place. Make sure that the two collars meet up and are flush at the center front, or else you will have a gap between your collar pieces at the center front.
Baste the collar in place at the 5/8" seam allowance. Again, make sure the collars line up at the center front. And that's it!
If you love collars but are more interested in a Peter Pan style collar, tomorrow I'll show you how to do a simple change to make this happen! See you then!
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